Canon 350D Peltier Mod

[MarkS]

wasn't the original intention to remove the CF holder and take the heat sink through the slot ?

Yes, that was the original intention.  But then I realised a could bring the copper strip out the opposite side just by unsoldering a couple of sockets and it would be far less risky than unsoldering all the legs of the CF socket (which might easily have caused a short circuit).  So I get to keep the CF socket and the copper strip takes a slightly shorter path to the Peltier - a better solution all round!

[MarkS]

I will have to have a go at this.

Dunc,

I'm going to buy a 2mm sheet of copper.  I can cut strips from it that will be properly flat and will give better thermal contact for improved performance.  You'll be welcome to a strip.

Mark

[The Thing]

That would be great Mark. Thanks.

I have got my second 350D now and want to mod my first one when it comes back from the repairers, then I have fall back position if the mod mucks up!

[MarkS]

I have got my second 350D now and want to mod my first one

Happy to help when you're ready. Strongly suggest you buy the Baader-ACF 2 filter (model specific for the 350D) for the conversion because, if you don't, you'll have to use a 2" IR/UV filter with it.  Unless, of course, you want to try your hand at IR photography.

Mark

[Mac]

From start to finish, Exactly how long would you say it would take to get an unmodded 350
Into the current state of your one?

Including the IR mod ect.

Mac.

[MarkS]

From start to finish, Exactly how long would you say it would take to get an unmodded 350
Into the current state of your one?

First time I did the H-alpha mod it took me about 3 hours - I can now do it in 2.  Whilst it's in bits, the additional overhead of the Peltier mod is another couple of hours at most - assuming the copper is already cut from a copper sheet.

Let's say 4-5 hours in total.

Mark

[Mac]

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm,

Looks like i might have a go at modding my 350D.

can you remember where you got the glass replacement.
Just found the link i was looking for.

http://astro.ai-software.com/articles/mod_350D/mod_350D.html
Mac.

[MarkS]

Go for it, Mac!

The one piece of advice I would give is that the ribbon cables are very fiddly to get back in position - they need to go all the way into their "sockets".  That part is a patient and careful operation that can't be rushed.

Will you use glass or the Baader replacement?

Mark

[Mac]

i'll probably go for just the glass replacement, and stick the necessary filters in the scope and /or lenses.

Where did you get your glass from?

[MarkS]

I got it from Edmund Optics. 
A 48mm x 84mm rectangle of anti-reflective glass:
http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlinecatalog/displayproduct.cfm?productID=2402

[Mac]

Cheers.

Ordered.

[Mac]

hurah, the glass turned up today,
so as soon as i strip the camera down please expect perfect viewing conditions,
Im looking to do it this weekend.
Hopefully

Mac.

[SimonTelescopium]

A really interesting project, have you used it in anger yet outside? Earlier posts suggested you were going to use desiccant packs to keep the sensor dry, has this worked? I built a Artemis 285 CCD (now prebuilt and sold as an  ATIK 285L (I think that is the model No)), the biggest problem I had was drying out the air in the area between the chip and the glass front and the CCD icing up, after a few experiments I was able to seal the unit successfully, but the reason I mention it is the volume between the glass and the CCD was kept dry by as reservoir of silica gel in a syringe connected to the air volume by a short hose, if you have trouble with icing this might help give the little space you have to work with.
Good Luck,
Simon.

[MarkS]

It worked perfectly the first time at -17C:
http://forum.orpington-astronomy.org.uk/index.php?topic=5409.0

But the second time it had problems at only -9C:
http://forum.orpington-astronomy.org.uk/index.php?topic=5467.0

I like your syringe idea - I might give it a try.

Mark

[JohnP]

Mark isn't there anyway you could seal the camera but still leave the battery compartment exposed or can't you get one of those adapter things for the 350D that would enable you to make the battery connection outside or better still use an external 12v source - no need to worry about opening at all then.. Something like this...

http://astronomiser.co.uk/canonpower.htm


John