M42 Atik314L 0.8 FR ZS66

[Fay]

This was my first image regarding about 6 different length subs, from 30 secs to 600 secs. I really have not got the hang of layer/masks, I have been on it all day, as I have a Canon M42 version as well. There are a lot of things wrong with it, but I need a good couple of hours tuition. I will never do one of these again, life is too short
Last night, looking like someone who had been buried in permafrost for 1000 years, I set the camera up to do 60 mins worth of subs, went indoors, came back out after 1 hour to see I had left the cap on the scope. Hence about 30 darks!!

[Rocket Pooch]

Fay I should not laugh, but thats bloody funny!

Anyway, maybe when I'm back from Wales this week I'll pop over and we can re-process the image, it was better than what you have put on the forum.

[Mac]

came back out after 1 hour to see I had left the cap on the scope. Hence about 30 darks!!

not to worry, you can start building up your dark library now.

[Fay]

Chris, are you talking about my image or my experience being funny?

I have just restacked using only the 300 sec subs. I think it is a bit better, although trapezium still a bit bright. I will put it on.

[Fay]

I think this ia a bit smoother, not so much drift,  15x300secs, I think. Tried to do  a couple of spikes on those 2 big stars but actions would not do it.

[Daniel]

Lovely image Fay, you've captured a lot of faint outer nebulosity, I guess that's what you get for 300s subs. Did you do any shorter subs to layer mask over the trapezium, or can you under-process another copy of the image before you stretch it?

Daniel
:O)

[Fay]

Daniel, you name it, I did it! I have never done it before & got confused. Also not sure what the shorter subs should look like. I suppose I could have a go at under processing the same image. Daniel, how do you choose which part of the mask you want to use? I seem to be using all of it.

[MarkS]

The second one is much better.  You are picking up lots of faint wispiness.  But the trapezium area is burnt out.

Mark

[Fay]

Yes, I do have the shorter exposures but when I add them, it looks muddy. I am not getting the processing correct. I understand the basic concept of layer/ masking, but need time on the rest.

[Whitters]

Lovely image Fay, you will have to start taking shots around the outside and compose a moasic. The nebulosity around M42 goes on for degrees.

[Fay]

Thanks Paul I am just on my 4th day of trying to master sorting out the Trapezium  Can't stand it no more!!!!!

[MarkS]

Fay,

I had a go at this myself last night in Photoshop. The steps are as follows:

1) Start with two images - one where the trapezium is burnt out (the bright image)and one where it is not (the dark image).
2) Copy and paste the dark image onto the bright image - it needs to appear as an extra layer.  You might have to duplicate the dark image as a layer on the bright image instead.
3) Select the dark layer and add a mask to it - there's an icon for adding a mask. The mask should appear just to the right of the dark image in the layers.  The mask will be either totally black or totally white.
4) Copy the bright image then activate the mask by holding down the "Alt" key and clicking the mask.  Paste the bright image into the mask - it will appear in black and white.  Now Gaussian blur the mask.

That's all there is to it.  Make sure both layers are visible (showing the eye symbol).  Now you can tweak it to taste.

If you are still stuck, I can send you an example PSD file tonight.

Mark

[Fay]

Thanks Mark, I have got that far. It is the bit where I don't want all the darker image to appear in the original, the paint the background black bit, & paint the bit you want to appear, white. When I add my darker bit, it is muddying up the original.

[Mike]

Excellent M42 Fay!

[MarkS]

Fay,

The mask should take care of that all on it's own - once you have pasted the bright image into the mask.  Where the bright image is burnt out, it will appear white in the mask - so this is where the dark image is substituted.  Where the bright image is dark, the mask will be black and so none of the dark image is substituted.   Where the mask is grey, you'll get a proportion of the dark image and a proportion of bright image.

There should be no need to manually paint black and white bits in the mask.

Mark