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Finder guiding issues with a Lodestar

Started by Ivor, Feb 27, 2014, 08:27:30

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Ivor

Thanks, duly bought. Alas I have to wait until the weekend for the emery paper and pliers it's not something Canary Wharf really caters for.
Do you think this would work for the guide scope removal?

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Oil+Filter+Wrench/p67000

What grit value emery paper is best 120?

MarkS

#47
I used a Boa Constrictor.  They're readily available on eBay (not the live snake kind!).
Not sure if I used 120 or 180 grit for the removal of oversprayed paint.
Has Robert Dyas gone from Canary Wharf?

RobertM


Ivor


Ivor

#50
Stripped R.A. axis on the EQ6PRO generally it was fairly clean there appears to be a Vaseline like grease inside.  I can't get the slotted nut out from the worm nut so I'm going see it I can find a better tool than the snipe pliers.

The big problem is one of the bearings it is significantly stiffer than the other two, it clearly needs replacing. All the bearing appear to have the same markings so I guessing there are the same. Now to find where to get it from google, google, where for out thou?

OK slightly confused the bearing appears to have 6008 RZ on it but people appear to refer to to rs2? Confused from Tunbridge Wells

MarkS

Quote from: Ivor
Stripped R.A. axis on the EQ6PRO generally it was fairly clean there appears to be a Vaseline like grease inside.  

Mine was similar - a good quality grease not full of all the swarf and black gunk that one often reads about.  My stripdown and grease replacement made no difference whatsoever.

Your stiff bearing could well be the problem.  I haven't replaced mine.

Mark

Rocket Pooch

Ivor,

Which bearing?  I assume you have taken it out before deciding its stiff?

Chris

Ivor

It's the dec one in the mount base, see in the final image of step 1 http://www.astro-baby.com/EQ6%20rebuild%20guide/EQ6%20RA%20strip%20down.htm

By stiff I mean it is running noteable less smooth than the others, I have to apply 100% more force to move it compared to the others. This does highlight another question I have which is how free running should the bearings be, the better ones move freely when I apply force but they don't run freely in a skate wheel kind of way is that the level movement I should expect?

RobertM

I decided to just repack the main bearings with castrol lithium grease and found that made things much better.  The freedom is such that if I release the clutches and lift the c/w shaft to horizontal I get about three swings past vertical before it stops.  The other main issues and those that made the best benefit were a) removing the excess paint from the moving surfaces (snagged as the axes were rotated) and b) replacing the worm bearings (with SKF).

Robert

Ivor

Wow mine's never been like that, so the replacement is a no brainer. Now do I bite the bullet and replace all of them?

Is this the correct part? http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p6362/SKF+60082RS1+Rubber+Sealed+Deep+Groove+Ball+Bearing+40x68x15mm/product_info.html

RobertM

I decided to do what I saw as the essentials and the main bearings weren't on my list - but it's your choice...

My SKF's were from Bolton Bearings on eBay as I found them the best cost/rating - £12.84 inc delivery for all four which I didn't think was too bad.  The larger bearings are likely considerably more so that may temper your enthusiasm somewhat ;)

Robert

Ivor

I received the SKF bearings last night, clearly a quality product compared to the ones supplied with the mount and I've fitted them into the chunky brass bits (I'm sure there's a more technical name for them).

So far so good, one of the other problems areas is the RA Worm it makes a lot of noise when rotating http://vimeo.com/90792441, I've really struggled to remove it and the bearing to the left appears to stuck; a more forceful approach will be taken tonight to extract it and work out what is causing the noise.



Ivor

I'm putting the mount back together and I'm unclear when to tell I've adjusted the RA and Dec correctly. The term "play" is used so in the case of the DEC axis does that mean when I hold the saddle I can move it slightly back and forth?



MarkS

Quote from: Ivor
I'm putting the mount back together and I'm unclear when to tell I've adjusted the RA and Dec correctly. The term "play" is used so in the case of the DEC axis does that mean when I hold the saddle I can move it slightly back and forth?

Yes, you need the gear to carefully mesh with the worm.  Not too loose so there's backlash (rocking the saddle back and forth) and not too tight so that it binds.  It is often a compromise between the two.

Similarly the worm bearing needs to be tightened so the worm cannot move end to end but is still able to move freely.

Mark