Hoping to finish the digging this weekend (I've been away the last 2 weekends) and then lay the concrete over the Bank Holiday weekend - first the piers then the shed base. The shed itself will have a wooden floor with airflow underneath.
I've just calculated the amount of concrete I need - 4 cubic meters - that's getting on for 10 tons. A cubic meter for each of the 2 pier foundations and another 2 cubic meters for a concrete raft as the shed base.
No plans to challenge Chris's record:
Is this a record? (http://forum.orpington-astronomy.org.uk/index.php?topic=8462)
I'll be careful not to make this mistake:
No isolation between pier and base! (http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2183882&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=9&o=o&vc=1)
Mark
The prospect of shovelling 10 tons of ballast and cement through a cement mixer and moving it by barrow makes me think a delivery of ready mixed concrete will be a much better idea.
I'm not afraid of hard work but discretion is the better part of valour.
Readymix is probably cheaper as well - even if they have to pump it down to the garden. Travis Perkins and Jewsons were both quoting around £650 for the materials to make 4 cubic meters of concrete.
Mark
I think I would be inclined to cast the piers myself - buying/selling or hiring a mixer
Then make the choice of ready mix or DIY for the pad.
Ready mix will mean 2 visits - piers then pad
The pier foundations and the pad could be laid done in one visit (I think). I just need to make sure there is isolation in place between them. The cylindrical piers can then be cast on top of the foundations later by me (there will be reinforcing bar already cast in place awaiting the piers).
Mark
You would need to prefabricate the "isolation" possibly in the shape of a top hat so they could just be laid on top of the piers - lest you suffer the ire of the concrete man :o
Let's clarify this.
The shed base is (I mean will be) a big rectangle with shuttering around it. Within the rectangle are two big squares which are the big holes for the pier foundations. These squares have their own shuttering (wood or other material) around them to prevent the concrete that is poured down the pier foundation holes from touching the concrete that is poured into the observatory base.
That shouldn't irk a concrete man as far as I can see. He just pours it into 3 separate locations. Just need to ensure that the level of concrete in the pier foundation holes remains an inch or 2 below the level of concrete forming the observatory base so that, later, the wooden flooring can span straight over the pier foundations without touching them. At some later time I cast the concrete pillars onto the pier foundations - the flooring won't touch them either.
Mark
I forgot you were flooring over the lot.
I have replanned this project.
New (accelerated) schedule is this:
Finish digging this weekend.
Readymix concrete delivery one day next week.
Begin wooden shed construction Bank Holiday weekend - so I get 3 days of shed building instead of 3 days of mixing concrete :-)
Just a question.
If you have the shuttering separating the pier base and the foundation base,
how will you remove the shuttering once the concrete is poured?
only the bottom of the shuttering will be surrounded by concrete on both sides, and will be extremely hard to remove.
removing the shuttering on my pier base was hard enough and that only had concrete inside of it.
Mac.
The usual thing I've read is to use an isolating material e.g closed cell foam AKA camping mat where you would think you would put the shuttering separating the pier base and the floor, it will have concrete on both sides to keep it in place. Trim to height afterwards. Alternatively you need a three layer shutter (plywood?) so you can pull out the centre section and then more easliy remove the pieces in contact with the concrete, then stuff the gap with closed cell foam or similar. If you cover the ply in clingfilm, vaseline,, axle grease or similar it should come away more easily (that last bits for Tony's entertainment ;) )
Mark,
You could use polystyrene sheet against the shuttering (about 25mm thick) and once your concrete has gone off you can then pour petrol slowly over the polystyrene and it will melt away, leaving a small void to allow you to remove the shuttering.
Don't smoke whilst doing this task.
Another one of 'TONY'S TECHNICAL TIPS' ;)
Tony G
Levelled the ground and finished the shuttering today. Just got to smash up the hardcore and lay it in place and then also put the rebar in place for what will be the concrete piers themselves (they will be cast later on).
In answer to Mac's question I have an inner and outer shell of shuttering in place around the pier foundation as follows:
XXXXXXXXXX
X i i X
X XXXXX X
X X X X
X X X X
X XXXXX X
X i i X
XXXXXXXXXX
The links represent by "i" are weak links that I can easily break apart once the concrete has hardened.
I was a bit lax when laying the shuttering - forgot to double check the orientation - so the shuttering ended up being oriented incorrectly meaning the concrete slab will end up half a degree off the N-S axis :-(
Does that mean the piers are now outside the observatory :o
No. What makes you think that?
:D
Does anyone happen to know a shop where I can simply go along and buy lengths of angle iron. 30mm (L-shaped) or 25mm at a pinch.
The usual suspects (B&Q, Jewsons, Travis Perkins) don't seem to list it online. I guess I need somewhere more specialised.
Mark
B&Q don't list half their steel stock, so a visit or phone call might get a result
Or for a proper job - a steel stockholders search page around Kingsnorth
Steel Stockholders (https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=STEEL+STOCKHOLDERS+KINGSNORTH&rlz=1C1CHFX_enGB515GB515&aq=f&oq=STEEL+STOCKHOLDERS+KINGSNORTH&aqs=chrome.0.57.19446j0&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
Most will cut for you - steel has a habit of coming in 5 metre lengths
Just to prove to Mick that, yes, the piers will be within the observatory:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory3.jpg)
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory4.jpg)
This hole is 3ft deep. The opening is 2.5ft square and it is 3.5ft square at the bottom - a kind of frustum of pyramid shape.
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory5.jpg)
I'm going to plug the gap under the shuttering with clay (I've got plenty of it) and I've found some polystyrene of the right thickness to fill the space between the two shells to prevent concrete being spilled into the gap.
A pile of rubble to be broken up and act as hardcore.
Mark
Great job Mark and a lot of hard work - made my back ache just looking at it.
Will you be doing something to stop soil/water washing under the observatory floor or against the timbers ?
What's the angle iron for ?
Who needs gym membership when you can dig out an observatory :-)
Digging the observatory base was the hardest part. But digging out the holes for the pier foundations was surprisingly easy - the spade easily sliced into the clay and I could remove it in large chunks.
I'm going to do some re-profiling of the higher ground to prevent the problems you mention. I'll do that at the same time I dig the trench for the armoured cable, lay a pathway and re-site those lethal rose bushes.
The (L-profile) angle iron is a track for the roof wheels to run along.
My garden trolley died on Sunday from metal fatigue on one of the wheels. The wheel collapsed and the trailer turned over depositing a pile of earth in the garden. I had to finish the job using a wheelbarrow.
Mark
I guess a proper steel stockholders could be a better choice if you want to get it the full length
QuoteThe wheel collapsed and the trailer turned over
You need some angle iron ;)
Looks deceptively smaller than it really is. What a lot of work especially digging two pier holes, I remember that well, though I didn't do the digging, I was the labourer removing the clay, but I saw the effort it took.
Coming on a treat.
Carole
Quote from: MarkS on May 20, 2013, 13:09:55
Does anyone happen to know a shop where I can simply go along and buy lengths of angle iron. 30mm (L-shaped) or 25mm at a pinch.
The usual suspects (B&Q, Jewsons, Travis Perkins) don't seem to list it online. I guess I need somewhere more specialised.
Mark
www.metals4u.co.uk (http://www.metals4u.co.uk)
They can sometimes be a bit expensive, but if your only after a little bit it often works out cheeper as they will sell you short lengths.
Otherwise could call Parker Steel or Smiths and ask if they will do cash on delivery.
Does it need to be steel? Aluminium might cost a little more but it will never go rusty. So long as you get something like 3 or 4mm wall extruded section will be more strong enough.
Thanks for the suggestion Jon.
I also found a very helpful local stockist of angle iron just a few miles down the road at Great Chart (thanks for your help Mick). They'll get it in tomorrow and can deliver, which is very convenient for me because I'm taking the day off for the concrete delivery(!). They also do drilling welding etc so it's a useful place to know.
Mark
Are they just pouring the concrete or levelling as well ?
Do you need a hand ?
Good question. Just pouring the concrete I think. I'm expecting to have to level it but never done it before - I have a rake, spade, and a couple of long enough lengths of wood for levelling (tamping?) - it needs to be level but no need to be smooth.
Any help appreciated :-)
They plan to arrive around 2pm and they're bringing two extra labourers to barrow the concrete from the lorry to the hole.
Mark
I will have 4 shredded wheat and see you about 1:30 then ;)
I would suggest having a couple of boards or paving slabs adjacent to the pier holes in case they decide to use the shuttering when tipping the barrows, also some sort of ramp over the obs. shuttering
Cheers Mick. See you tomorrow.
Ready to go:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory6.jpg)
Mark, I'm surprised your not mixing the concrete by hand yourself... Now that would be a workout... ;-)
Anyway - its looking good..
I trust it you have Stella on tap for Mick's visit - gonna be a lot of hard thirsty work going on by the looks of it...
John
Quote from: JohnP
Mark, I'm surprised your next mixing the concrete by hand yourself... Now that would be a workout... ;-)
Maybe I should have done - concrete man has let me down - he won't be coming until tomorrow morning now :-(
Sorry Mick!
Sniff :(
Was looking forward to making mud pies with concrete :cry:
Did have some Stella though :beer:
Well they finally arrived around 5pm.
They barrowed, laid and tamped the concrete. 4.2 cubic meters in total
Now sitting under a tarpaulin to protect it against possible heavy showers tonight:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory7.jpg)
looks like the new communal tent has been found.
Mac.
How long did it take them ?
Quote from: Mac
looks like the new communal tent has been found.
:lol:
It took them about an hour and a half.
If I did it myself in a mixer I'm sure it would have taken 3 days!
The angle iron for the roof "rails" arrived yesterday, so I have all I need to make some solid progress now (once the concrete has hardened).
Mark
That was quick :o
Quote from: mickw
That was quick :o
They worked like trojans and they knew what they were doing!
Looking good Mark & the weather for long weekend looks not too bad so hopefully lots of progress. John
Very nice, Mark ... but will you have pussy cat paw marks across the wet concrete, or fox, or rabbit, or...... or...... :squirrel: :ferret: :parrot: :bug: :chase: :baa:
Looking forward to seeing the completed observatory; it`s gonna be a smasher!!!!
Doug.
Close of play Sunday:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory9.jpg)
The wall frameworks and roof trusses are all built. I'll construct the wooden floor tomorrow then everything can be assembled in place.
Mark
You're in the wrong job Mark! Looks like you will be imaging by Wednesday. Except for the rain. :!
Shuttering removed this morning:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory10.jpg)
This represents the current state of play (before I covered it with a tarpaulin):
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory11.jpg)
Floor is laid and walls in place except for the hinged flaps. The "ventilation ducts" have not been filled with concrete - I need to cut them to the appropriate length first. From now on, progress will be much slower.
Mark
Thats an added novelty Mark, red lampshades!
Looking good Mark.
Excellent progress Mark.
Carole
Blimey, you're not hanging about are you and it's looking very good.
You might need to hold those ducts down as well as vertical when you start to fill them, concrete will try and escape out of the bottom and that would be a bad thing :(
Excellent progress Mark & what a great weekend for working in the garden... :-)
Quote from: mickw
You might need to hold those ducts down as well as vertical when you start to fill them, concrete will try and escape out of the bottom and that would be a bad thing :(
Good point!
Quote from: JohnP
Excellent progress Mark & what a great weekend for working in the garden... :-)
Yep - I was certainly lucky with perfect weather for 3 days solid.
Next step is to install the horizontal runners and get their supports concreted into the ground.
Mark
Mark's shanty town survived today's weather intact - just a few drips got inside:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory12.jpg)
I've checked it for vagrants - no-one has set up residence (yet).
Mark
And it looked like it was going so well. :(
This is the time to tell Dee that you want the prototype. ;)
Tony G
A roof that rolls!
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory13.jpg)
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory14.jpg)
Although it rolls quite freely, it is very heavy and awkward to push. It is easy to pull with a rope though. Needs some careful thought about how to operate it.
Mark
Great stuff.
Why not motorise it? A simple rack and pinion would do the job.
Looking very good Mark.
Are they fold down panels to the front and side (which I gather is firstly South.....front, and East.....side, but don't whether you done the West from the photo)
Keep up the progress.
Tony G
Quote from: Tony G on Jun 03, 2013, 07:15:18
Looking very good Mark.
Are they fold down panels to the front and side (which I gather is firstly South.....front, and East.....side, but don't whether you done the West from the photo)
Keep up the progress.
Tony G
Child :-)
Anyway Mr T, I need some help with insulating mine, let me know when you have a free day :-)
In the long run I'm sure I will motorise it somehow.
Yes, those are fold down panels to the South and also to the East and West, allowing views down to the horizon.
Chris - why do you think you need insulation? I wasn't planning on any for mine.
Mark
I agree with Tony, it's looking very good.
I would think the insulation would be to keep it cool - the shed I built in London was insulated but still got hot during the 1 or 2 days of summer each year.
Quote from: mickw
during the 1 or 2 days of summer each year.
:lol:
I have a technical question.
I haven't quite worked out what to do when the flaps are closed. They need to be clamped very tightly both to the each other and to the main part of the shed in order to provide the necessary structural stability.
What can I use to achieve this? I'm sure something must exist to do the job, but what? Some kind of heavy duty clasp on the inside that pulls the sections together and holds them firmly without any free play or rattle.
Ideas welcome!
Mark
I would have thought that a standard bolt on each end of each flap so they cross over at the corners would do the trick
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Safety+Security/Padlock+Bolts+Hasps/Medium+Duty+Brenton+Bolt+100mm/d200/sd3154/p34557 (http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Safety+Security/Padlock+Bolts+Hasps/Medium+Duty+Brenton+Bolt+100mm/d200/sd3154/p34557)
Or if you want to keep getting a spanner out
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Safety+Security/Shackles+Chain/Turnbuckle+M8/d200/sd2612/p91657 (http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Safety+Security/Shackles+Chain/Turnbuckle+M8/d200/sd2612/p91657)
with these
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Safety+Security/Shackles+Chain/Chain+Plate+Staple+Black/d200/sd2612/p43287 (http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Safety+Security/Shackles+Chain/Chain+Plate+Staple+Black/d200/sd2612/p43287)
or
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Safety+Security/Shackles+Chain/Chain+Plate+Hook+Black/d200/sd2612/p87561 (http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Safety+Security/Shackles+Chain/Chain+Plate+Hook+Black/d200/sd2612/p87561)
and
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Safety+Security/Shackles+Chain/Snap+Hook+M8/d200/sd2612/p48240 (http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Safety+Security/Shackles+Chain/Snap+Hook+M8/d200/sd2612/p48240)
What about toggle clamps?
(http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/132364377/LATCH_TOGGLE_CLAMP_WITH_U_HOOK.jpg)
Toggle clamp! That's it!
Thanks Mike - that's exactly what I had in my mind. I had never seen one before but that is perfect for what I want.
Mark
Excellent, I'd only ever seen them in sort of tool box sizes
Quote from: mickw
Excellent, I'd only ever seen them in sort of tool box sizes
It's the kind of thing that potentially has lots and lots of uses ...
Every observatory should have one!
I feel the need to build an observatory so I can use them :o
They are sometimes called 'Claw type toggle clamps' or 'Latch and hook toggle clamps'. There is also the push kind...
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/716NCN9SY5L._AA500_.gif)
Which are normally used in carpentry for holding pieces of wood down whilst you drill or route them.
This place has a wide range...
TOGGLE CLAMPS (http://www.goodhanduk.co.uk/Catalogue/Toggle-Clamps?gclid=CNCDstrQyLcCFfMPtAodCyEAUg)
I was going to suggest, toggle clamps.
Also used a lot for making quick realise jigs. Is impressive how tightly they can hold things down!
Mike,
I've found something even better on the site you suggested:
Toggle Latches
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/toggle_latch.jpg)
They are lower profile, resistant to coming undone from vibrations and cheaper: £10.50+VAT for a 6500N holding force.
I've ordered 5 for the flaps. If they work well I'll order another 4 - one of each corner of the roof, to lock it in place.
Thanks Mike (and Jon!)
Excellent :D
Latest pic:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory16.jpg)
I should be able to start the external shiplap cladding at the weekend.
Fantastic progress
Quote from: mickw
Fantastic progress
The great thing about the this time of year (I hesitate to say Summer)is that I can do a couple of hours on some evenings.
I've found a company online that will fabricate my pier top plate.
A steel disc 300mm in diameter, 15mm thick which will be bolted onto the concrete pier with M16 threaded rod. Drilled with 9mm holes to accept an Altair Astro EQ6 pier adapter plate. The Altair Astro EQ6 adapter is mounted off-centre to give the scope more freedom of movement without hitting the pier.
Diagram here (http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/pierhead3.jpg)
They have quoted me £25 for each top plate + £10 postage. I reckon that's pretty good value.
Mark
Thanks to the Saturday afternoon visitors from DSC who helped get the first shiplap boards in place and the first flap successfully operating with hinges. (Fay also helped by taking a few photos - of horses and flowers, I think).
Here's one of the images from the timelapse camera:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory17.jpg)
Here's the state of play at the end of Sunday:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory18.jpg)
Two walls (almost) completed and two to go ...
The pier head steels discs have arrived.
Here's one of them:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory19.jpg)
Not the prettiest of things but the holes were drilled perfectly to my specification for the off-centre mounting. I'll give them a coat of paint. The discs I mean - not the holes!
Mark
Mark, (or any else interested)
Whilst out on Saturday I spotted a real bargain which was a 240v cable hoist, and didn't know if it could be utilised in the opening and closing of the Obs roof.
There was about 20 or so of these at £10 each, as they are trying to get rid of old stock (Lidl's) and as you see from the link below, someone is trying to cash in on them.
If anyone would like me to pick one up (whether you have an Obs or not) just let me know.Postage and Packaging £46.50 Free P&P, which means you'll get it the next time I see you. ;)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Parkside-cable-winch-garage-hoist-/111098061616?pt=UK_Home_Power_Tools&hash=item19ddf5e330 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Parkside-cable-winch-garage-hoist-/111098061616?pt=UK_Home_Power_Tools&hash=item19ddf5e330)
Tony G
Meteorologists say we are in for a decade of wet cloudy summers:
http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/stand-by-for-another-decade-of-wet-summers-say-met-office-meteorologists-8663024.html
They blame it on the "Atlantic Multi-decadal Oscillation". But I think I can guess the true reason.
Really sorry about this, folks :oops:
Mark
Hoping to get the "ventilation ducts" ready for the concrete tomorrow (Saturday). First need to cut them down to size and then erect temporary framework to hold them in place and vertical.
I bought a 2nd hand NEQ6 mount this week (the new style with the dual Vixen/Losmandy saddle and the extension bar for the weights) to sit alongside my existing EQ6.
Last weekend, on the Jodrell Bank trip, someone asked me about how the roof rolls.
The answer is that it sits on two giant "inline roller skates":
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatorywheels1.jpg)
Here's another view, sitting on the angle iron "track" with the roof trusses screwed on top:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatorywheels2.jpg)
The nylon wheels are good quality with proper bearings. A set of 4 has a load capacity of 600kg. I've used 6 wheels to build in some safety margin because I reckon the roof weighs around 700kg.
Wow that roof is heavy, I can lift mine up, I hope the wood does not split where the bolts go through if it really is 600kg, might be worth putting some string reinforcement around the bolt holes if it is.
Quote from: Rocket Pooch
I hope the wood does not split where the bolts go through if it really is 600kg, might be worth putting some string reinforcement around the bolt holes if it is.
I'm not sure that string would help much :-(
Mark what keeps the wheels from rolling off? Do they sit in a track?
A 40mm angle iron track ("L" cross section).
It looks like the rollers are set about 5' apart and the "axles" for the rollers have about 3" of timber (twice) above them which would only put around 70-75 kilo load on a 5' span (of effectively) 4" x 3". I did have my doubts but it does look strong enough.
What will stop the rails moving apart or closer ?
Apologies for resorting to maths :(
Yes the wheels are approx 5' apart.
Quote from: mickw
What will stop the rails moving apart or closer ?
The angle iron is screwed down (I drilled holes through it).
Or were you asking something different?
Sorry I meant the rails the wheels are fixed into
The rails holding the wheels are screwed to the roof trusses. So their distance will be always fixed.
Doh
Obvious really :oops:
Today's gusts of wind succeeded in sliding the roof backwards, since I haven't yet fitted the internal locks. It may weigh 600kg or so but it moves relatively easily. I think I need to uses wedges for the wheels - at least until I've fitted the locks.
Hi Mark,
The string bit is called whipping, when you have the grain going left to right and a whole through the middle you can whip either side and dope it and it becomes incredibly strong, like the old planes in ww1 and before.
I have fixed many wooden garden chairs doing this when the bolts holding the folding legs together cause a split. You glue and whilp and bingo all done.
Chris
Right - now I understand!
I remember my dad doing similar on camping equipment. But it's a long time since I've seen it done.
A few from yesterday (Saturday):
Rebar trimmed back and ventilation duct cut to the right height:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory20.jpg)
Checking everything is in order and verifying North/South marks before filling with concrete:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory21.jpg)
Immediately after filling with concrete:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory22.jpg)
The wooden template is there temporarily - it will be removed once the concrete has hardened.
Very annoyingly, I ordered only six M16 threaded rods instead of eight. This mental aberration resulted in only one pier being completed :-(
The other pier has been filled with concrete approximately halfway - to a level just below where the threaded rod will reach.
One day later, the completed pier seems to be quite solid. Actually, very solid! Extremely solid is probably a more accurate description.
A couple more pics:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory23.jpg)
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory24.jpg)
The exterior is now nearing completion except for a few trims, a few coats of wood protection and the fact that I need to construct a door in the North wall.
I still have another pier to cast. Then the electrics and the landscaping ...
At the presnt time I have 8800 time lapse pictures taken at 1 minute intervals, which means the project has taken 130 hours so far ...
But a few hours went unrecorded - when I was working in the rain and didn't want a soaked camera.
Mark,
That is looking really good, but was curious as to what council band it comes under. ;)
As for the door, don't put 1 in as it will encourage squatters and you could get quite a few in there as it would be the first large hotel they see this side of Dover.
Seriously, it is really taking shape and I look forward to seeing the time-lapse.
Tony G
The doves might decide to move out of the dovecot into the observatory. :cheesy:
But seriously Mark, fantastic bit of work.
Carole
you have worked really hard Mark, a real trouper!!
Excellent job Mark. I'm looking forward to seeing what images you are going to be producing with your two pier observatory.
That looks amazing Mark. Have you had any more thoughts on mounts and imaging cameras? It won't be long now and autumns approaching!
I was going to make a witty comment about it but I fear I will be :police: ed
Quote from: The Thing
Have you had any more thoughts on mounts and imaging cameras?
For the time being it will be 2 EQ6 mounts. As for cameras, my trusty modified 350D will eventually be replaced by a modified 550D - pending the outcome of my testing. I also have the OSC Starlight Xpress SXVR-M25C.
My intention is still to concentrate on wide-band colour imaging though I might begin to experiment with narrowband.
Quote from: Rocket Pooch
I was going to make a witty comment about it but I fear I will be :police: ed
I am offended by your wit-free post. I think it should be removed!
Sorry Mark
:-)
I built a shed door and I put the EQ6 mounts on their piers today - just to try things out (I'll post a picture later).
I was very interested to see how well isolated the pier mounts are from the shed foundations.
So once it got dark I trained the Celestron C11 with 2x Barlow and DMK camera on Saturn - so this was a very high level of magnification. I displayed it live on the laptop screen and then jumped up and down on the wooden shed floor close to the pier. The result was that the image momentarily blurred each time I landed on the floor. However walking around on the shed floor close to the pier had no effect whatsoever.
So clearly some vibration can still be transmitted through the wooden floor to the concrete shed base and then through the clay soil to the concrete pier foundation. However I still judge this experiment to be a success. Previously when I used the tripod on the grass for planetary imaging, it was very susceptible to vibrations just from walking nearby.
Generally speaking I'm not going to be jumping up and down on the floor during planetary imaging! Unless I'm holding a party in there :cheesy:
Here are the pics I promised:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory25.jpg)
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory26.jpg)
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory27.jpg)
Thats quite an impressive job youve done on that Mark ! Looks like it's all come together rather well - you must be well pleased.
I like the last picture with the sunset - all ready for a nights imaging :)
Robert
Excellent job Mark - Well done - bet you cant wait for first light..
I read an article the other day in a local paper about High Halden planning a new flood lit sports arena - hopefully it wont upset your seeing after all that hard work... ;)
John
Great progress Mark. How long till its ready to use? Looks almost done to me.
Quote from: Mike
Great progress Mark. How long till its ready to use? Looks almost done to me.
It is certainly usable in it's current state. But there are a few time consuming things left to do:
I need some coats of wood protection and then add the trims on the corners.
Internal wiring and running the armoured cable from the house.
Adjusting the ground levels around the observatory.
Once I've taken holiday and other booked out weekends into account, it won't be completely finished until mid to late August.
Quote from: JohnP
I read an article the other day in a local paper about High Halden planning a new flood lit sports arena
:lol:
Excellent job Mark
It's been a while since we've had an update. You didn't accidentally set fire to it one day whilst having a BBQ did you?
I think Mark may have just found out if its water proof, looking at the radar last night he got a soaking as did Mick.
Quote from: Rocket Pooch on Jul 23, 2013, 07:18:06
I think Mark may have just found out if its water proof, looking at the radar last night he got a soaking as did Mick.
And pretty lights
And loud bangs
Progress stopped for 2 weeks whilst I was on holiday in France. Last weekend I moved a mature rosebush which sat directly on the access path (yes I know it's the wrong time of year to do this - if it dies then I'm also dead!). This weekend I dug a trench for the 4mm armoured cable and a tube for a possible future data connection:
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory28.jpg)
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory29.jpg)
I then created an access path, lowered to give me more headroom: 6'2" which is fine for me but might give taller folk a headache. I need one of those "Max Headroom" signs, but who's going to see it in the dark?
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory30.jpg)
Next job is the internal wiring ...
For the electrics, I'm still undecided whether to go down the DIY route within "Part P" of the Building Regs or get an electrician in to do the whole thing and save the hassle of the involvementof the requirements (and fees) of Building Control Officer, whatever those requirements may end up being.
Looking really great Mark - getting so close now.
Quote from: mickw on Aug 06, 2013, 09:37:12
Looking really great Mark - getting so close now.
When I built our log cabin down the bottom of my garden, I had a quote of supply and fit a few plug sockets and lights and connect to the house consumer unit (including 25m of 4mm cable) I was quoted a price of £280 from a very good electrician, which at the time, I thought was expensive.
I ended up getting a quote from another guy, which I ended up agreeing that Id do the work and he'd make it live connecting consumer units abd issuing the Part P for £180.
My work ended up being a fair bit. I used 10mm cable in the end. The cabin had 12 internal double sockets, 2 double external sockets (one on an internal timer) 2 internal lights and one external on an extra consumer unit. I also extended this to the work shed, adding more armoured cable (6mm) and 4 double sockets and light switch. It too me ages to wire up.... But I was surprised how long it took the guy to do his part, so the original quote i now appreciate was a bargain price.
AFAIAA you must have Part P for any out building and any additional circuits. I certainly saved a fortune by doing as much as I could myself.
Fantastic job BTW.... Im most jealous!
I wouldn't bother about the part P.
When (if) you come to sell your house you will need to get the whole house checked again anyway,
That's what happened when we sold our old house.
Even though we had the extension signed off under part P.
the Buyers solicitor demanded that the whole house was checked.
So its a waste of time.
Mac.
Canon 600D with 18-55mm kit lens at 18mm f/3.5 on 1 August
20 x 10sec subs at ISO 1600 stacked in IRIS.
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory31.jpg)
I seriously need to have a go with my attempted time lapse of the milky way when I was in Tenerife on the top of Teide. Ive got 2 or 3 hours worth of captured images using similsr to yours. (Canon 550 7 seconds 18mm) The skies were just so clear and the colours of the milky way visible to the naked, its nutz to have failed.
Electrician comes Thursday to wire it up and issue the test certificate. Once the wiring has been "fished" through, I can add wire mesh to prevent rodents getting underneath the floor. All the wall and floor panels can then be finally screwed down firmly. Some minor adjustments needed to the roof runners now the roof has bedded in. Some other minor bits and pieces also need doing. Then once the dust has settled (literally) I can start moving equipment in, like a beer fridge and, I almost forgot, telescopes as well!
The last 10% of this project seems to be taking 50% of the time.
Quote from: MarkS on Aug 20, 2013, 08:16:13....I can start moving equipment in, like a beer fridge....
Glad you are sorting out the most important stuff first.
Fantastic job Mark.
QuoteI can add wire mesh to prevent rodents getting underneath the floor.
That's a good point, I put a membrane over the ground below my decking to prevent any potential plants from growing, but just lately some animal keeps dragging it out. I think I had better put some wiring underneath my decking before I get a wildlife sanctuary under there.
Carole
Great news Mark - a beer fridge is essential :)
Not bad news about the sparks as well ;)
I devoted a page of my website to the construction:
http://www.markshelley.co.uk/Astronomy/observatory.html
QuoteElectrician comes Thursday to wire it up and issue the test certificate.
Has he finished yet ?
Has he finished yet ?
Has he finished yet ?
Has he finished yet ?
Has he finished yet ?
No he hasn't finished.
In fact he hasn't started because we decided that Friday would be preferable instead of today.
Mark
Doh :(
I now have electrics!
Including a wall mounted red light (for possible night time use) and a wall mounted white light for when the roof is closed.
Now I no longer need the access for fishing cables throuhg, I put chicken wire around the base to prevent vermin getting under the shed. Unfortunately, in doing so, I trapped inside the vermin that was already there - I found a dead baby rabbit in the underfloor space this morning :-(
I won't tell my daughter - she would be most upset.
So the floor can be properly screwed down today.
Mark
Quote from: MarkS on Aug 20, 2013, 08:16:13
Electrician comes Thursday to wire it up and issue the test certificate. Once the wiring has been "fished" through, I can add wire mesh to prevent rodents getting underneath the floor. All the wall and floor panels can then be finally screwed down firmly. Some minor adjustments needed to the roof runners now the roof has bedded in. Some other minor bits and pieces also need doing. Then once the dust has settled (literally) I can start moving equipment in, like a beer fridge and, I almost forgot, telescopes as well!
The last 10% of this project seems to be taking 50% of the time.
Good to see priorities correctly addressed! :lol:
Bet you can't wait to get cracking!
Great progress. Good weather for doing all the inside bits - software updating, mount installation, cabling and testing the waterprooofing - but a bit rubbish for alignment and testing. Sunday night might be OK though :)
That's good news Mark :D
Unless you've lost a baby rabbit :cry:
It was a clear night last night so I gave the observatory a dry run (well actually a very damp, dew filled run) until the moon came up.
I managed to align both mounts pretty accurately but not yet drift aligned.
One of the first things I noticed was a lack of desks/shelves - so there was no-where to put things - it all ended up on the floor. This will need rectifying!
The piers also currently have nowhere to place the EQ6 handset, USB hubs and all the other assorted bits and pieces needed for controlling the mount, DSLR, dewbands etc. so it all ended up hanging all over the place.
So clearly a few tweaks are needed. It will probably take me a while to work out the optimum layout.
My DSLR serial control cable also died last night so I need to get a new one.
Everything except the concrete piers was soaked in dew when I closed up at 1am - which is quite normal - but I was very pleased to note that at 6am this morning it had all dried out completely - without heater or dehumidifier - however it is well ventilated.
Small tables or cupboards fitted with castors could be moved around wherever and shoved against the wall when not in use.
Office chair with wheels would also be useful - Executive recliner of course (Nice and comfy for the occasional nap) ;)
Interlocking rubber flooring is also a good idea, a) more comfortable b) softer landing for anything you might accidentally drop c) warmer on the feet.
I got mine at on-line maplins as have a lot of other people.
Carole
QuoteI got mine at on-line maplins as have a lot of other people.
I managed to get mine from a spare office at work that no one was using. :cheesy:
Mac.
Rubber flooring? I've got wall to wall carpet waiting to go in - I won't have a chance to do it before Saturday though.
I installed a red bulb in one of the two wall lights in the observatory last night. So I have a red light for night use and a white light for when the roof is closed. It looks very seedy with the red light illuminated.
I also set up EQMOD for the first time ever. I have a question though: once I finished, I set my scope to park and then closed Cartes du Ciel. So tonight when I switch my PC on, fire up CdC, link to the scope and unpark it, will it know exactly where in the sky it is pointing (assuming the PC clock is accurate, the mount properly aligned and I haven't touched the scope in the meantime)?
If so, I think I'm going to enjoy this observatory lark ;-)
Hi Mark,
Rubber flooring Red light, sounds inviting for certain types.
EQMOD you can park at position and it remembers it, then you just plug it back in and unpark and bingo your off again, its really good. I used to have my pier mount in London setup this way and when I went to the observatory I was up and running in seconds with the 1st goto always very close at 2 meter focal length. If you get any issues with this park method it will be flexture or inaccurate clock timing and you will need to re-sync.
Chris
In the section where you can go into the sync data list you can set if eqmod saves the data on park and restores it on unpark.
Well at least your Obsy won't look like mine did when I put a red light in it!!!!
:oops:
(http://www.caroleastronomy.webspace.virginmedia.com/_wp_generated/wpfda2c794_0f.jpg)
It's Christmas !!!
I must admit Carole, that's a good candidate for an APOD...
Quote from: RobertM on Aug 29, 2013, 19:17:36
It's Christmas !!!
I must admit Carole, that's a good candidate for an APOD...
Well it would be - it is A POD :roll:
Quote from: Carole
Well at least your Obsy won't look like mine did when I put a red light in it!!!!
:lol: :lol:
Quoteit is A POD
Very clever!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
No pampas grass ......
QuoteWell it would be - it is A POD
Blimey Mick you are on the ball today... very funny... :-) :-)
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Paradise!!
(http://www.markshelley.co.uk/webdisk/observatory32.jpg)
Did you manage to get to sleep with that grin on your face ? :lol:
Excellent Mark - you must be very pleased after all your hard work - John.
Drool !!!
Double drool!
Looks like the lens has misted up......you've got a sort of milky mess across the sky! :lol:
Boy... Am I jealous! All networked up so you can operate remotely I assume?
Quote from: Les R
All networked up so you can operate remotely I assume?
Not yet. I was hoping the wireless networking would be fine but the desktop PC won't remotely log onto the Observatory laptop when it's out in the observatory (it can't see it), even though both see the router. I'm not sure why. When I bring the Observatory laptop indoors I can remotely log onto it fine.
If all else fails I'll run an ethernet cable through the conduit that I thoughtfully buried in the ground - thanks for that tip Robert!
Got remote desktop control working today. Dunno what the problem was but a windows update seemed to fix it. So I'm currently sat in the warm, learning how to use APT. Very nice program. I love the collimation aid (the concentric circles) and the Bhatinov. Shame the collimation aid doesn't come with remotely actuated Bob's knobs! I've also ditched the Shoestring GPUSB and I'm using pulsed guiding from EQMOD.
I'm gradually catching up, technology wise ;-)
I'm using Team Viewer on my phone to monitor guiding on my laptop at the moment. It will even relay PHDs pings when it looses the guide star!
Mark,
You will find that, thoughtfully, Microsoft seems to disable some network traffic with particular updates - notably Remote desktop. If you disable updates then it should be ok - well it worked for me.
You will also find that those Ring battery chargers throw a lot of noise out onto the mains so I turn mine off during imaging.
Robert
The first observatory casualty occurred tonight. I had the roof 2/3 retracted because that allowed the scopes to see sufficent sky. But because of the dew collecting on the front edge of the roof section, it dripped down into the observatory and onto the keyboard of one of the laptops. The keyboard now doesn't respond and Windows will not start up. Hopefully it'll be OK once it dries out.
Is the laptop happy again ?
You are stuffed with dew, I even think guttering wouldn't help because the dew would settle on the bottom of the guttering as well
Lappy not happy, definitely not.
I even put it in the electric oven last night for a few hours to thoroughly dry it but Windows still won't fully boot because of inoperable keyboard.
Luckily it was my old Toshiba laptop not the replacment Lenovo. So I have one Tosh with a dodgy screen and another identical model with a dodgy keyboard. I should be able to mix'n'match to create a single working laptop.
Bummer
At least keyboards are usually a doddle to replace
Quote from: mickw
At least keyboards are usually a doddle to replace
Hope so ...
Can you plug in a desktop keyboard in the meantime?
Carole
Interesting. I wonder if it is just a short across one of the contacts or if the keyboard controller chip has gone pop. Like Carole says, try an external keyboard for now.
Finally - the video:
https://vimeo.com/78316901
Approx 9000 frames shot at 1 frame/minute
Cool :D
Very good, but its not painted :-) Also did you notice progress slowed when the OAS guys got there.
Like the video, it appears you didn't use any insulation in the walls, did you feel it would create more condensation problems than remove?
Did you use any CAD software to plan the build out? I was considering trying this http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make (http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-make)
Ivor,
It's not insulated and it's not heated but it is well ventilated. The ventilation means that dew from imaging sessions evaporates quite quickly and it means the scopes are kept at or near ambient temperature, so no long waits for cooling down before imaging, except in the summer. It also prevents any interior condensation problems. However, roof insulation would be a good idea in the summer to prevent interior heat build up.
Wall insulation would be a good idea if I wanted to heat it in the winter but first I would need a means of reducing ventilation.
I don't know if my approach is the best approach. if I'm persuaded otherwise, I can easily gain access to retro-fit wall insulation, by unscrewing the interior panelling.
I didn't use CAD for the design but more or less made it up as I went along with the aid of a few scrappy diagrams. The standard width of the sheet materials determined most of the measurements i.e. floor area, wall lengths, spacings for wall uprights and for roof trusses. The height of the overlapping shiplap determined wall and flap heights. The 15 degree setting on my bench saw determined the roof pitch angle.
You're welcome to come and take a look (since we won't be at uDSC) - just PM me.
Great video Mark.
Thanks for the kind offer, I'd like to take you up on it but at a later date once I've planned out mine in more detail and worked out more of the sticking points.