Has anyone had a Shoestring DSUSB cable apart, or found a diagram for it ? I can't bring myself to pay $70 + duty + VAT + royal mail charges (assuming it ever got here).
I've found this site and there appear to be variations of it - DSLR Focus one seems closest, but the operation needs to be the same as the Shoestring one so it would be compatible with programs such as Nebulosity
http://www.beskeen.com/projects/dslr_serial/dslr_serial.shtml (http://www.beskeen.com/projects/dslr_serial/dslr_serial.shtml)
Any thoughts ?
Cheers
is it for a nikon or canon?
If its for a nikon then i built my one following this info http://www.schneordesign.com/Avi/F100/diy_01.htm (http://www.schneordesign.com/Avi/F100/diy_01.htm)
A word of warning though, for the nikon, you need to have the auto focus as well as the shutter control wired in.
otherwise it dosent work, even in manual focus!!
Took me ages to suss that out.
One other bit of info, the pins were incorrect, if you want the correct pin out then i'll let you know,
Total cost about £2 and its compatible with all of the camera control programs.
Sorry, should have said - it's for a Canon (camera, not DSC project ;))
if you laptop had a 9 pin serial i can make you one.
Mick,
If you don't have a serial port then take Chris up on his offer and then buy one of these super-cheap USB-Serial adapters:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-2-0-TO-RS232-SERIAL-DB9-9-PIN-ADAPTER-CABLE-PDA-GPS_W0QQitemZ370266362800QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL?hash=item56359853b0 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-2-0-TO-RS232-SERIAL-DB9-9-PIN-ADAPTER-CABLE-PDA-GPS_W0QQitemZ370266362800QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL?hash=item56359853b0)
Carole and I both have one and Carole says it also works on Vista laptop
You'll need to download the driver from the Chinese manufacturer (I can give you the URL) or, alternatively, buy a more expensive one that comes with the driver CD included.
Or, to save Chris work, buy one of these that John answered in an earlier question:
http://www.astronomiser.co.uk/300d.htm
Mark
Thanks for all that.
I don't have a serial port but I do have a serial-USB adapter and I've had it working driving the ETX 8)
Astronomiser is certainly cheaper than the shoestring version and in the UK, but at the moment I don't trust royal mail to deliver anything on time or to the right place :-?
Sooo Chris, yes please or steer me towards the schematic and I'll toddle off to Maplins :)
Cheers
The optoisolated version here is probably what you want:
http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/dslr/CanonRelease.html
Could probably be done as a UDSC project ;-)
Quote from: Space Dog on Oct 11, 2009, 12:15:46
if you laptop had a 9 pin serial i can make you one.
Can u make me one for my Nikon, Tell me your fee and I will pay ;)
si
Quote from: MarkS on Oct 12, 2009, 10:51:58
Could probably be done as a UDSC project ;-)
Great idea, I am now an expert with a blow-torch and some lead, and would love the challenge of sorting this out for you, as you did for me at the last UDSC.
Just give me one chance Mick, I won't let you down. :-?
Tony G
QuoteJust give me one chance Mick, I won't let you down
Thanks Tony, you're my hero :)
NO
Mark, I had another look at that site and it looks straightforward enough but I noticed it makes no mention of mirror lock-up, which is what I want to do (together with the long exposure). Although I would imagine mirror shake wouldn't do much harm with exposures over 30 seconds ?
He does have a link to a russian bloke who was having issues with the shutter not closing. He modified Covington's scheme adding a duplicate circuit which seems to close the shutter via a third wire to the Canon plug. I believe this connetion is usually used to trigger focussing.
The Russians circuit looks the same as the DSLR Focus adapter, although using different value components and a 9 pin serial plug instead of 25 pin parallel.
Yes, Canon uses one contact for focusing, the other for shutter control.
If you are doing long exposures then mirror lockup is definitely not required. I only use mirror lockup for high magnification moon/planetary stuff.
Which Canon is it? The 300D has no mirror lockup unless you install the "Russian Hack" - which works well. The 350D has mirror lockup built in and so do the newer ones (I think).
Anyway, the way mirror lockup works is that the first pulse locks the mirror and the second pulse activates the shutter - no extra wiring is required but you program needs to understand this feature.
Mark
Quote from: Simon E
Can u make me one for my Nikon
My Nikon (the D70) has no connector. Long exposures can only be done using an IR remote.
QuoteMy Nikon (the D70) has no connector. Long exposures can only be done using an IR remote
have a look at this page.
http://www.alanmacek.com/nikon/ (http://www.alanmacek.com/nikon/)
Simple project.
Build the Serial output cable, and use the serial port to turn the remote pic on.
That way you can get the computer to controll the IR remote.
problem solved.
I'll order a small pic, IR led I've got some transistors and an oscilliscope, and i'll have a go at building you one.
i'll make it the same as my nikon one, 9pin one end and 9pin the other, so that you can build other adaptors..
I did once find instructions for opening an ML-L3 and using that. It looked pretty easy and the remotes are only about a tenner anyway. I'll have a look later and see if I can find the instructions...
Quoteprogram needs to understand this feature
Thanks Mark, mind now at ease - the software does it, or should (Nebulosity).
and it's a 400D
I'll bring my 12v soldering iron and digital meter to UDSC just in case we need a Saturday afternoon project ;-)
Mark
Maplins have got the wrong part as an opto isolator (locally anyway)
Sold me a DC-DC converter - Output 24v, now that would have warmed the place up - the camera anyway.
Should have left it to Chris :(
This is what you want: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=2198&C=14880
The quad opto isolator is apparently in stock in Orpington & Bromley (but not the dual version). Go along to Bromley - visit the the OAS display in the library and then pay a visit to Maplin!
Mark
This is what I've been looking at
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=2223 (http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=2223)
It's a quid cheaper ;)
On the dual module there doesn't appear to be a connection for the base of the phototransistors :-?
OK, I just read the notes :oops:
That should do the trick.
well the Pic's and IR diodes have turned up.
I'll have a go over the next few weeks at getting the remove for the D70 working via software.
Mac.
Well 1st of all, i've managed to get the pic working fine transmitting the IR code,
Cant test it yet as i've not got an IR camera, but you can see the led flashing.
As there is also a huge amount of spare capacity on the pic i've decided to add
a three button long shutter function as well, for when you dont have your laptop.
Button one, chooses the number of exposures 1 - 10
button two chooses the length of exposure from 30s to 5mins in 30 secs.
the third button starts the remote, after a delay of 5 secs.
Fingers crossed i'll have it finished by thursday.
Mac, for a while I was thinking you'd gone nuts as I have a Canon :roll:
Then I realised it was Simon that asked about the Nikon :oops:
QuoteMac, for a while I was thinking you'd gone nuts
I have, years ago..
(http://www.wheelsforkids.org/images/CuckooSmileyFace.gif)
:lol: :lol:
Well the project is finished,
Just need to test the IR part, everything else is working ok.
Simon are you local? if you fancy testing your camera.
The box as it will stand will have the following.
3 buttons
2 D Plugs
IR Diode.
2 LED's
It works as follows. Stand alone (No computer)
Button 2 increases the number of photos to be taken. max 255
After each press, the number of shots is flashed on one of the led's
Button 3 increases the length of the photo in 30s increments. max 16
After each press, the length in multiples of 30s is flashed.
Button 1 Starts the timer and takes the selected number of photos for the selected length of time.
This pulses the IR output, as well as providing an output to the other Dplug for conventional Nikon and Canon cameras.
after each photo, the remaining number of photos left is flashed on the led's delay between photos is about 10s (can be reduced if you want)
All i need now is to test the IR on a D70.
to stop the photos mid shoot, press 2 & 3 together.
Computer operation.
As soon as it detects an input from the computer on the 9 pin plug,
it latches to the computer control section.
it sends this out to the other 9pin D plug as well as the IR code for the nikon.
so long as there is an output from a pc, the IR transmit will work.
This should work with out any problems on most of the software programs that there are.
Timing was pretty spot on
2 seconds out on a 10 min test
The only problem i can see is if i have to pulse the IR code, as this will need a re-tweek for the timing.
Mac.
Bugger :(
Nebulosity does not recognise the adapter despite the PC doing so.
This is the drawing I used (The DSLR Focus version - except used 4N25 opto coupler/isolator)
http://www.beskeen.com/projects/dslr_serial/dslr_serial.shtml (http://www.beskeen.com/projects/dslr_serial/dslr_serial.shtml)
I'll check it all again tomorrow but don't know if it's the serial/USB adapter or something I've buggered up :-?
Time for a beer
Mick,
The USB-Adapter will appear like a COM port. You need to find the COM port number (go to ControlPanel|System|Hardware|DeviceManager) and tell Nebulosity to use that COM port (and not the USB).
Try it out with this software first:
http://www.stark-labs.com/DSLR_Shutter.html
Mark
Thanks Mark, I'll have a tinker tomorrow
It's Alive.............................................
Thanks again Mark - can't believe I forgot about about the Com port nonsense, it's been discussed so many times on here :oops:
Next step is to squish the lot into a D9 shroud without breaking something.
Still having issues regarding what to turn on/plug in first, but plenty of time to practice
Did manage to get a 2 minute exposure of my wall, don't think I'll post it though :lol: